The Southern Gem “Tongdosa”

This past weekend we went to an amazing, and quite old, temple in between Ulsan and Busan called Tongdosa (Tongdo Temple). This was a great getaway from the city and quite accessible by bus from Ulsan for only 1300Won ($1.50). We went with a good friend, Olly, who couldn’t have been a better accomplice, sharing the despite of sitting around and wasting time this saturday became a memorable one.

Tongdosa is an all wood temple complex and considered one of the three “Jewel Temples of Korea” high on the list of international pilgrims and Koreans alike. Founded by monk Jajang in 646 as one of the largest compounds in Korea, it hosts a 1307 year old eternal flame, and several of the relics of Buddha himself: A begging bowl, one of his skull bones and ashes, as well as a robe, all of which are guarded and revered by the monks at the complex. These items and the other relics and wise people of the complex complement the unique architecture and spiritual serenity of the valley it sits in.

The temple itself is known as the Buddhaless temple as there are no statue of him on the grounds except for the new fat Buddha outside the museum which is not on the temple grounds. The grounds survived all the tumult of empire changes through the years but most structures did not survive the 16th century Japanese raids of Toyotomi Hideyoshi except for the main hall “Daeungjeon hall”. Nothing is sacred in war and sadly Korea shows this time and time again. Before these raids it is estimated that the dozens of buildings at present were accompanied by around 1000 others given archaeological evidence. In any case the stone stuppas and pagodas on the grounds are quite historical and unique, especially considering how relatively intact the compound is.

When we were there they monks had been preparing for the Buddha’s birthday adorning the place in lotus lanterns and rows of coloured lanterns which will all be ignited on the 24th of May.  It was truly magical to follow the lanterns strung up the mountain pass from the road to the temple. I have always hoped to walk under a canopy of colour and light into a beautiful building, something I thought could only be achieved by drugs before coming to Korea. Olly said he would like to steal one and so did I but then I thought about what I was told about how the faithful bring lanterns as gifts to the temple along with money gifts, how western of us to want to nab one. Luckily we are going to the grand Seoul Buddha festival next Saturday and can make one ourselves there.

I am sure glad that I was able to spend this time with such a mellow guy as Olly, it was nice to be here and just appreciate the serenity of the temple and the trickling river in front without the usual weigookin (foreigner) sharp remarks and needs to be witty and look unimpressed. I hope everyone can get out, humble themselves and experience this festival at your nearest Buddhist temple if not for faith but aesthetic or calming reasons then you will be all the wealthier a person. Happy birthday Buddha!

Ilju-mun Gate
Main entrance to the temple constructed in 1305. 

Jackie and I on the main temple bridge.

The lanterns leading the faithful to the temple for the Buddha’s birthday.

The 1350 year old wooden structure Daeungjeon hall.

Jackie standing beside the Temple belfry, which is quite new for the temple, built in 1686 for the “salvation of pitiable beings who wander among earth water and air” like us humans.

Olly checking out the gate of the shrine to the temple’s founder Jajang.

The main low pagoda of the temple which houses Buddhas ashes built in 645 this pagoda is quite impressive but hidden from the tourists.

Sachonwang Guardians at the gates to the temple. These are demigods who represent the four directions and rule much of the human world letting out reward and punishments.

Another shot of the Belfry.

Another shot of the belfry with the Hwaseon pagoda in front dating to 880 this is an old pagoda.

Jackie giving the museum Buddha a rub.

The pillars marking past abbots of the temple get truly reverent placemarkers.

Lovers talking on the small bridge of hong-gyun-gyo, the temple is surrounded by bridges and nice meditation points.

So go out and explore a temple all you here in Korea and those in Canada and elsewhere look for the beauty and spiritual points in the land you live. Make a connection deeper and more aesthetic than material and sarcastic pursuits. Humans can make serene and beautiful things and revere them when we give it some patience and care.